Sunday, September 5, 2010

Istanbul: Further Surveillance

It is 2AM on Monday. A light rain was falling on Istanbul when I awoke last morning, proving that even the most gorgeous places sometimes have grim days. Jeremy tells me this is perhaps the third time he has seen it rain since his move to here several months ago. I like those odds, especially now that the rain has cleared.

We departed two evenings ago to meet with two of Jeremy's friends nearby before crossing the Bosporus. Atakan and Roseann, a half-Italian, half-Turkish guy and an Irish girl respectively, were an amazingly kind and friendly couple. The casual atmosphere between friends and acquaintances is a great thing to experience. Atakan offered us each an amount of a Turkish vodka with some very interesting, almost coffee aftertaste to it. I am unsure of whether I prefer it, but it was quite kind.

We soon had to split up from them and took a ferry across the Bosporus to the European side.

I look like an utter jerk.




At least the view is nice.



That boat is a tour boat. I know I am not a tourist because I am not on it.



This is some kind of incredibly important tower that I'll likely climb later on to take pictures from. I cannot for the life of me remember what it is called, and I am sure I shall be chastened for it.


We had plans to meet with another of Jeremy's friends later, but in the meantime we visited an "irish pub". The beer were all pilsners of varying degrees and there was not much actual Irish to it, but the place was quite nice regardless. We also met another patron of the bar, a Japanese woman who was staying in the city for the next few months to teach English. She knew very little Turkish, so it was easy for me to share in some of the language difficulties we have both experienced here. A very nice conversation was had, and I learned she had been to America for about a year before this, and was staying with her husband while in Turkey.

After some time, Jeremy and I left the bar for the center of Taksim, where we would meet with Pinar. He convinced me to try a kind of fast food burger that he constantly raves about, and it was remarkably reminiscent of an American Sloppy Joe, with less slop. It was about this time when we finally joined Pinar and I was spared from the accounts of Jeremy's addiction to these cruel devices. Poor devil.

As it turns out, Pinar is awesome. She joined us as we sampled a few bars and spots around the Taksim nightlife for the conversation. Perhaps the best part of the evening (in my mind) was the discovery that while all of us understood English, only Jeremy and Pinar could speak Turkish, only Pinar and I could speak French, and only Jeremy and I could speak Pig-Latin. Purposefully exclusive conversations have never been so fun.

Proof that Pinar exists. Ignore the strange guy.


We eventually left Taksim and arrived at the apartment by 2AM. I am unsure whether I should fear becoming used to this sleep schedule, as it cannot possibly be healthy. We'll see how long it continues (probably for the duration of the trip, unless I suddenly need to turn in early). I must confess I am unused to this lifestyle now. While in college I could wake up around 10AM and stay up until 2AM, more recently my work schedule shifted my normal sleep cycle to a 5AM-11PM  system. Now it appears to be closer to my former lifestyle, only this time with less responsibilities.

My jet lag appeared to catch me last night, as I slept until almost noon and still felt groggy upon waking. I shall skip most of this day (it was dreary for the first half and involved Sleepless in Seattle somehow), Jeremy, Pinar and I sojourned around town and met up with Atakan and Roseann again, as well as several new people. From that point on we had a minor mob to ambush unsuspecting tea gardens, cafes, and bars.

Two things are of note from this part of the evening.

One is that the politics and history of Turkey is utterly fascinating, and the inhabitants of Istanbul, while very progressive, do not necessarily reflect much of the surrounding country. This poses some unique expectations and challenges for Turkish citizens, especially when it relates to joining the EU or obtaining visas for other countries in which to work, study, or live. There is also great expectations for Turkey, as a young nation (less than one hundred years old) that is trying to be the foremost muslim-based democracy in the world. I invite further conversation on this topic at a future point.

The second item is that many of the new friends I have met have great taste in music, both western styles and Turkish bands. I was particularly surprised to discover that such bands as Interpol, Cake, and They Might Be Giants are known here (though I should not be so surprised with TMBG. This is not Constantinople after all). U2 is to perform a concert with Snow Patrol in the city later this week, as well. I shall not be going, however (I dislike Bono, who has apparantly refused to perform in Turkey for twenty years in a human rights protest and even now only calls the city Constantinople, and does not advertise the event as a concert). This is because on Tuesday, the day of the concert, we will be welcoming another traveller to the apartment. A Slovakian friend of Jeremy's sister is visiting the city for a time, and we will be hosting her (by 'we', I of course mean Jeremy. This is not my apartment, nor my place to host. I can pretend, though).

Everything keeps getting better here. If I am not careful, I might become used to having an interesting life.

These are the gates to a deceased, well-known artist who specialized in children's shows and folk music.



The inside of the gate has creepy bronze statues of the children who failed him.



The yard is full of metal vegetables. I wonder if they count as vegan.



That white part from before is actually a hill made of music. Nice.



This old building stood out to us as we were waiting for Atakan and Roseann. It honestly looks like someone transported it from a remote, craggy mountain and hid it within Istanbul. Damn you, Carmen Sandiego!



I did warn you about these pictures.



Fishing and dilapidated buildings go together quite well.



I often enjoy hiding the fact that I am taking pictures of people. It makes for much more candid photographs.



Jeremy and I have determined we should start a new indie rock band with this as the cover of our first album. I agree.


Finally, do you remember I mentioned cats are everywhere? Jeremy and I were eating french fries while waiting for Atakan and Roseann to meet up with us (they were stuck in traffic due to the holiday), and this kitten kept trying for our plate. He probably jumped up on Jeremy seven times or so, and myself at least twice. Cute little thing.



C'est tout maintenant, mes amies.

-Hyde

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